I learn calligraphy!

I finally sat in on my first calligraphy class today! It was my first-year's class, and they were obviously clueless as to why I would want to go. But I had a really good time. It's actually quite relaxing. I can see why Zen matured the way it did in this country. Here is the evolution of my calligraphy abilities in this first class. That's my name in katakana on the left hand side there. And no, I have no clue what the kanji (characters) actually mean. 

Flickr account

New photos here!

I love Onsen

It's starting to get much colder here, or at least I feel like it's much colder. Today at work my JTE and I commiserated about the weather - it certainly didn't help that it was raining. So, after work, I decided to take a little trip to an onsen - hot spring spa - near my house. It's called Jonnobikan, and was recommended to me by said JTE. It was somewhat dark and rainy on the drive up (it's up on Yahiko mountain), which only took about 10 minutes. When I got there, I was confused because there were these signs that said "doctor fish." I thought maybe it was a hospital. After leaving and coming back I discovered it was in fact the onsen I was looking for. For only 500 yen (about $5) I was given a towel and unlimited time in the onsen, which consists of several hot pools of water, 2 onsens, and even an outdoor bath. I cleaned myself off (you have to clean yourself for about 10 minutes before getting in the bath - it is public, after all) and then soaked to my heart's content. I felt all the coldness in my bones melt away. I left about an hour later. On my way out, I saw a pool of water by the door. It was full of little fish, and bore a sign that said "doctor fish, 850 yen." I have no idea what this meant. I don't know if I want to know?

Pictures of my apartment!

I know, finally. Bedroom, washroom, living room, kitchen. I also have a separate room (along that main hallway) with a bathroom, and there's a shower 'room' off the washroom. 

Johzinji Street Jazz Festival (brief recap)

I should also mention I went to a street jazz festival in Sendai, a big city on the East coast of Japan and a little North of here. Some friends and I went about a week ago and stayed with a CIR who lives there. I didn't take any pictures, so this is a less exciting post, but it was a really good time. We got to listen to amazing music - one of the highlights being the traditional melded with the modern - shamisen and electric guitar. We also found a library that had some of the most attractive modern architecture I've seen. On the top floor there was a small art library, and we spent lots of time there reading when we go tired of walking around. I 'discovered' a few Japanese photographers I really like, the most notable being Naoya Hatakeyama. If you have a chance, please look up his work. 

Niigata Albirex!

Sorry I haven't written in so long! I've been busy busy - this weekend was musical auditions (yes, I'm going to help put on a musical) and a welcome party in Sanjo, a city near here. I don't have any pictures of those things (sorry!) but more details will be coming later (we have our first practice this weekend!). However, I do have pictures of the Niigata Albirex game I went to yesterday! The 23rd was a national holiday here because it was Autumn equinox - from here on in the days get shorter. In celebration (?) a few of my friends and I went to what I'm pretty sure was my first pro sports event. And it was awesome. I loved trying to learn the cheers in Japanese, and high-fiving Japanese women whenever we scored a goal. And we won! At the end of the game, the team walked around the stadium (the 'Big Swan') and bowed to the audience. I can't say whether or not that happens in the US, but I feel like it doesn't...

The sunset out my window.

More night shots

New bands I'm listening to

I just got an emusic account, which is pretty awesome because it lets me download music (legally) for way cheaper than itunes. I've become addicted to Sprengjuhollin, especially the songs 'Worry 'til Spring' and 'Fra Gleymdu Vori.' I've also downloaded 'Great Expectations' by the Gaslight Anthem, some new Walkmen and Okkervil River, and 'Young Folks' by Peter, Bjorn and John. 

Speaking of music, I just got back from the Johzinji Jazz Festival in Sendai. There was band that I was mesmerized by, featuring a Shamisen (traditional Japanese string instrument), electric guitar, and drum machine. Also, there was a Beatles cover band, and of course I sang along.

And...

Night shots: rte. 116, the N-1 Building, reflection on a building. (I'm really happy with the second one...).

And more...

Persimmons, not yet ripe. The forest. A shed.

Pictures!

The rice is changing color, and a storm comes over the mountain. 

(Sorry the color is wonky but I'm having trouble figuring out the right way to color balance rice, which I intuitively think should look like grass but it's actually quite yellow).

Autumn is coming...

Autumn is finally on its way here in Japan. The days and nights are getting cooler, and I am so thankful for that. I know I'll be missing the heat in a couple months, but for now, I'm glad to see it go. 

Yesterday on my run I had my first 'spontaneous hello.' I've been running every morning and saying 'ohayo gozaimasu,' which means good morning, to everyone I see. The other morning, however, a woman walking her dog said it to me first. Of course, I've seen my kids around town and some of them say hello, but this was my first real adult hello. 

I've been getting into a more set schedule here. Usually I wake up around 5:30, have some tea and cereal (genmai flakes, which are my new favorite, basically rice flakes) and read the paper, then go out for a run around 6:30. I'm back by 7:30 and I quickly shower and have more cereal or some fruit before heading out for work. I work from 8 to 4, and usually teach 4-5 classes during the day. This is team-teaching, which means both me and the JTE (Japanese teacher of English) are in the room. Sometimes I plan the activity, sometimes they do, and we often work together. I have lunch with either the students or the teachers (depends on the school). School lunch is somewhat different in Japan than America. For one, everyone gets the same thing, usually consisting of rice, miso soup, a protein source, and a vegetable source. And a milk box. Also, everyone sits together, and when the students eat they are told when to start eating and when to stop. There's usually pop or classical music playing while they eat. It takes some getting used to, but it's not bad. 

I leave work at 4 and usually have a snack and read or watch the daily show online to recuperate, then go run errands or meet friends for dinner. I've been trying to go to bed early, 10 or so, because I wake up so early. 

So all in all, life is good. I have to admit that autumn is making me a bit homesick, but I plan to get in the spirit of Japanese autumn by helping to harvest rice, climbing the mountain behind my house, and making some Japanese squash. I think it's going to be a pretty good season.

A few new pictures...

I've finally started going on some 'shooting expeditions.' My most epic was the other day, when I rode my dinky little bike out near the mountains for about an hour. I got some very strange looks when I stopped on the side of the road to take pictures of old buildings and vegetable patches. I haven't gotten a chance to tinker with them as much as I'd like, but here are the best ones so far.

Oh - and that top one is a picture of my fun little bike parked across the street from the building in the picture below it. When I was taking that photo, this old guy came out from his yard where he was watering a plant and looked in the direction my camera was pointed. We exchanged a funny look and then both laughed when he didn't see anything but the building. I bet he thought there was a monkey. Apparently there's a monkey on the loose in Tokyo...not that that's anywhere near here. 

More food I have eaten.

Smelt (that is not my hand, and yes I was one of two at my table to decline to eat the heads), Sushi on Sado, tasty tasty Indian lunch.

Sado

Oh my gosh. How do I even begin to describe the weekend that was the Sado Earth Celebration? Well, here's some background. The Earth Celebration was begun by a Taiko (traditional Japanese drumming) group called Kodo some 20 years ago. Kodo live in a special village on Sado island, which is in the Japan Sea off the coast of Niigata. They travel to perform but the Earth Celebration is their main event every year. It is supposed to be a time both for increased awareness of our relationship to the earth and to other cultures. To this end, every year Kodo invites a different musical group to come and share the stage with them at the celebration. Kodo does a solo performance Friday night, the visitor is alone Saturday night, and they come together Sunday night. Kodo even goes so far as to send a representative to practice with the visitor before the celebration in order to get a better feel for their musical style. 

This year's guest was Olodum, a Brazilian samba-reggae group that also does community work in Brazil. It turns out there are quite a few people of Japanese descent in Brazil and of Brazilian descent living on Sado, so the turnout was quite large. 

The main site of the festival is Ogi port, which faces Niigata. At the harbor there is a large market with booths selling international food and clothing. Throughout the weekend I had Mexican food, Thai food, and Nepali food. Also, I was shocked at one point to hear the sounds of Ithaca's own Sim Redmond Band playing over the loudspeakers at the market. 

The main concert every night is held in a park in a forested area. The only way to get there is to walk up a very steep stone road along which painted paper lanterns are hung from trees. It's quite magical because you walk up into the forest with the cicadas going crazy all around you. 

So, on Friday afternoon I took a ferry from Niigata to Sado. It took 2 hours and only cost about $24. It's laid out very different from an American ferry - there's a large carpeted space for people to sleep and have a picnic. Most people sleep. Of course, I slept. 

Daphne and I arrived in Sado on Friday and stayed until Monday morning, the longest of anyone else I know. We were exhausted by the end of the weekend, but it was completely worth it. Kodo is amazing, and I am in awe of anyone who can do Taiko. Also, I was able to shake it to Brazilian music all weekend long, which made me unbelievably happy (and a little sore). 

My new friends and I camped on the beach, which was good for sunsets and night swims but bad because it started raining Saturday, and sleeping in wet sand is really no fun. 

Luckily, we were able to rewarm our cold, soggy bodies by a trip to an onsen (my first!). For about $7 we were able to go for a dip in a ridiculously warm pool of water overlooking the Ogi harbor. Yes, one of the walls was a giant window. Afterwards we fell asleep in the 'waiting room' which is basically a giant room covered in tatami mats with cushions for sleeping. It was heavenly, and a great way to end an already wonderful weekend.

One note - we weren't allowed to take pictures during the performances, so I don't have any of those!

English Camp

English camp is exactly what it sounds like - a group of students come out to an activity center, kind of like a YMCA but with dorms and a cafeteria, and spend three days playing games intended to teach them English. The kids are all about 13 or 14 years old but are often quite shy, and would probably seem younger to most Americans. There were about 30 or 40 students and maybe 20 teachers, so we had a pretty good ratio. There were about 6 groups of kids with 3 teachers per group. My group had three teachers, and our students decided (with our help, of course) to name themselves the 'Chocolate Kitties,' this being the result of an inability to decide a preference between two favorite things (chocolate and hello kitty). 

The camp was fun but admittedly exhausting, as there were a lot of kids to keep entertained and to attempt to communicate with. However, when the final bonfire came around, everyone had enough energy to join in. 

Still to come...

Sado Earth Celebration! English Camp! More pictures of food!

Niigata Matsuri 2!